How much does a new fuse box cost?

The fuse box is the panel, usually under the stairs, in a hallway or by the front door, where the electricity supply is split into circuits. Electricians now call it a consumer unit, because modern ones use circuit breakers and residual current devices (RCDs) rather than fuses. Replacing one is one of the most common electrical jobs in UK homes, and the price varies more than most people expect. This guide uses figures from sources that do not sell electrician leads, explains what changes the price, and sets out what you should get when the job is done.

All prices are ranges and averages, not quotes. The only way to know what your board will cost is to have an electrician look at it.

What a new fuse box costs in 2026

Three independent sources agree on the broad range:

The IET publishes the Wiring Regulations (BS 7671) that electricians work to, and Which? and Logic4training are not lead sellers, which is why we use them. Lead generation sites publish cost guides too; we leave them out because they sell leads to the trades they price.

Which? prices exclude VAT. A business only has to register for VAT once its taxable turnover goes over £90,000 a year, according to GOV.UK, so many sole trader electricians do not charge it and many limited companies do. Ask whether a quote includes it, because 20 percent on £1,000 is £200.

What changes the price

A fuse box swap looks like one job, but the electrician is pricing several things at once.

The number of circuits

A one bedroom flat might have six circuits; a large house with an extension, an electric shower, an outbuilding and a car charger can have twice that. More circuits mean a bigger board, more devices and more testing.

The type of protection

The IET says that generally all circuits in a home will need additional protection by an RCD, which cuts the power in a fraction of a second if current leaks to earth, for example through a person. There are two common ways to do it. A dual RCD board splits the circuits between two shared RCDs, so one fault can trip half the house. An RCBO board gives every circuit its own combined breaker and RCD, so a fault only takes out that circuit. RCBO boards cost more, and many electricians recommend them. Ask which you are being quoted for.

Surge protection and arc fault devices

The IET notes that the current Wiring Regulations, BS 7671:2018, require protection against surges, so most new boards include a surge protection device. They also recommend, but do not require, arc fault detection devices (AFDDs), which add cost per circuit. Check whether either is in the price.

Where the board goes

Replacing a board in the same place is the cheapest option. Moving it, for example out of a cupboard that is being knocked through, means extending every circuit and adds labour. The IET points out that a fire in a consumer unit on an escape route, such as a hallway or under the stairs, can have more serious consequences, which is one reason the rules on enclosures changed.

What the electrician finds

This is the part nobody can price over the phone. Before fitting a new board the electrician has to test the existing circuits, and a modern board with RCDs will trip on faults that an old fuse box ignored. Common extras are upgrading the main earth or the bonding to gas and water pipes, and repairing faulty circuits so they can be certified. A good quote says what happens if a fault is found: whether the electrician stops and calls you, and what they charge for the extra time.

Do you need a new fuse box?

An old board is not automatically unsafe, and you are not legally required to replace one in a home you own just because it is old. Electrical Safety First says that if your fuse box does not have RCD protection, it is recommended you upgrade it so that it meets the latest standard, but that it is not urgent. It also points out that a C3 code on an inspection report is a recommendation only.

Signs that it is worth having it looked at soon:

• Rewireable fuses, the ceramic holders with fuse wire, or a board mounted on a wooden back board, which the IET says was acceptable in the 1960s.
• No RCD, which you can usually spot as the absence of a switch with a test button marked T.
• Frequent tripping or blown fuses, or buzzing and crackling, which Electrical Safety First lists among the warning signs.
• Adding a big load, such as an electric shower, an extension or an EV charger, where the electrician may need space on the board or better protection.

Some signs are urgent. The IET says a burning smell, excessive heat or smoke, or evidence of burning or charring at the board means you should isolate it immediately, if you can do so safely, and call an electrician.

If you are not sure, an Electrical Installation Condition Report is the honest starting point. The IET recommends one at least every ten years for an owner occupied home and every five years, or at a change of occupancy, for a rented one. Our guide to what an EICR is and how often you need one explains what it covers and what the codes mean.

Metal consumer units and the 2016 rule

Since January 2016, the IET Wiring Regulations have required consumer units in homes to be made of non-combustible material, so that any fire is contained within the enclosure. In practice every new domestic board is metal. The IET explains that a plastic unit with a fault, such as a loose connection, can burn and release toxic gases.

That rule applies to new installations. An existing plastic board does not have to be ripped out because of it, but if yours is being replaced for any other reason, the new one will be metal.

Is replacing a fuse box notifiable?

Yes. GOV.UK says most repairs and replacements do not need building regulations approval, except heating systems, oil tanks, fuse boxes and glazing units. You do not need to apply yourself if the work is done by someone registered with a competent person scheme, such as NICEIC or NAPIT, because they notify it for you.

If the electrician is not registered, Electrical Safety First says responsibility for notifying the work falls on you, through building control, which costs time and a fee. You can check a business on the Registered Competent Person Electrical register or through Electrical Safety First. Our guide to checking a tradesperson is genuine covers the other checks worth doing.

What you should get when the job is done

Electrical Safety First says you should ask for a copy of the Electrical Installation Certificate and that you should also receive a Building Regulations Compliance Certificate. The first comes from the electrician on the day and records the test results. The second comes from the electrician's scheme after the work is notified. Keep both with your house papers, because a buyer's solicitor will usually ask for them.

The new board should also be labelled, with each circuit named. Electrical Safety First notes there may be a label in the board saying when it was last inspected and tested, and the IET says RCDs should be tested using the test button at a maximum interval of six months.

How to get a fair price

1. Get an EICR first if you do not know the state of the wiring. A new board cannot fix faulty cables.
2. Ask for a visit. A fixed price needs someone to see the board, the earthing and the circuits.
3. Get two or three written quotes. Electrical Safety First recommends at least three. Check each one names the board type (dual RCD or RCBO), surge protection, testing, certificates and VAT.
4. Agree what happens if a fault is found, and a limit after which the electrician stops and calls you.
5. Plan for a day without power. Which? says half a day to a day. Agree a start time and deal with the freezer.
6. Get both certificates before you pay the final amount.

If the wiring itself is old, our guide to what a rewire costs explains when a partial or full rewire makes more sense than a new board on its own. For hourly and day rates on smaller jobs, see what an electrician charges per hour.

Find an electrician near you

Post your fuse box job free, saying how old the board is, whether it has fuses or switches, and when you are free, and add a photo if you can. A local electrician gets back to you with a price or a time to visit. You pay the business directly, and nothing is taken online.

Or browse local businesses first: electricians in Birmingham, Wolverhampton, Coventry, Dudley, Walsall or Solihull. For more guides on repairs and costs, see all our home advice.